The most fun surf I have had this time home….
Currumbin Alley today was incredible fun.. Long 2-3ft peeling whackable walls running from right next to the point all the way to Laceys on the right ones. My back has been out for months now so for me to get in the water it has to be perfect! I called my mate Garth Gibbons to ask if I could surf on this new little number he has made! Garth is a very talented shaper and has shaped all over the world with some of the worlds best shapers and also for some of the elite surfers as well as the average joe like myself.. I love his boards and this little biscuit he has designed looked like it was the Mustard.. So we jumped off the front and waited.. As luck would have it a screamer came through and my first wave on this thing was incredible. It took me from the point to Laceys and for the first time in 2 years or more it felt like I could surf again.. Up and down, top to bottom, even my patented look back cutty. I blame the board for all of this! It was sk8y but never was I in fear of sliding out.. It keep its speed through every turn I managed and drove out of them and into the next with incredible tempo! And that was my first wave! I paddled onto about 10 waves this session and everyone was the same! In a nutshell if you haven’t ever surfed a board like this you should. 5 foot 8 of funness!!! Garth thanks mate and it might be in France before you this year!!! Inteview with the man behind the planer will be coming tomorrow! Look out world!!!