WOW!!! I thought we were immune from the terrors of the north. Stay up there you rude kooks!!! (or where-ever your from) The little shorey today was inundated with W@NKERS none anybody seemed to know.. They had no brain of their own and twice I paddle two of the sheep into a rip just for shits and giggles.. Have fun people while surfing and respect the other surfers wherever you surf especially if your not at your at someone elses local and you don’t know how to find your own waves!! !
Now, rant done, the sun was shinning and the waves were so fun this morning all the way to lunchtime. The rip that was up the beach, forming over that last swell has put a massive hole right next to our rock. It was working into our favour the last few days but looking at it now I think it all done and dusted for our little shorey. There was some great surfing again with young Morrison busting some crazy airs, surf coach Richo steering some up and comers into some sick ones then slipping into a few himself. I even managed a few with a couple of good mates until I just had to come in…. Lawson, before I put my camera away, smashed a cracker left to the beach demolishing the things poor lip 3 times before coming in while the ‘others’ were left to paddling around in the rip, playing follow .
A side note for today… Thanks to all the kool people I meet every morning. It lightens my day… but for the other people, tattooed ones included, relax, life can be ok if you let it!