Busy…

WOW!!! I thought we were immune from the terrors of the north. Stay up there you rude kooks!!! (or where-ever your from)  The little shorey today was inundated with W@NKERS none anybody seemed to know.. They had no brain of their own and twice I paddle two of the sheep into a rip just for shits and giggles.. Have fun people while surfing and respect the other surfers wherever you surf especially if your not at your at someone elses local and you don’t know how to find your own waves!! !

Now, rant done,  the sun was shinning and the waves were so fun this morning all the way to lunchtime. The rip that was up the beach, forming over that last swell has put a massive hole right next to our rock. It was working into our favour the last few days but looking at it now I think it all done and dusted for our little shorey. There was some great surfing again with young Morrison busting some crazy airs, surf coach Richo steering some up and comers into some sick ones then slipping into a few himself. I even managed a few with a couple of good mates until I just had to come in…. Lawson, before I put my camera away, smashed a cracker left to the beach demolishing the things poor lip 3 times before coming in while the ‘others’ were left to paddling around in the rip, playing follow .

A side note for today… Thanks to all the kool people I meet every morning. It lightens my day… but for the other people, tattooed ones included, relax, life can be ok if you let it!

Yes.. the sun is back...

Yes.. the sun is back…

I forgot what it looked like with golden morning light bouncing off the beachfront.

I forgot what it looked like with golden morning light bouncing off the beachfront.

HAHA.. Even the Shadows were making me smile.

HAHA.. Even the Shadows were making me smile.

A sunny morning walk...

A sunny morning walk…

Still menacing but I will take it while I can...

Still menacing but I will take it while I can…

The foam and the sun..

The foam and the sun..

Moods...

Moods…

The rips are everywhere.. Sorley, telling the public where not to swim.

The rips are everywhere.. Sorley, telling the public where not to swim.

My black sand is going..

My black sand is going..

Again....

Again….

From the top.

From the top.

Embracing the sun..

Embracing the sun..

14 years old and ripping. 1

14 years old and ripping. 1

Bammm.. 2

Bammm.. 2

Another young guy shredding. 1

Another young guy shredding. 1

2

2

A big one for a little girl

A big one for a little girl

and then...

and then…

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Richo giving some sound advice

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Thorough stuff.

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Vacum cleaner.

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He can turn as well

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Its already busy fella’s.

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BG on a inside one.

These were everywhere on the beach but I didn't see too many out in the water.

These were everywhere on the beach but I didn’t see too many out in the water.

The rocks..

The rocks..

I tried for a new angle.. I got a spiritual scare..

I tried for a new angle.. I got a spiritual scare..

and he lifts on the rights as well.

and he lifts on the rights as well.

A bit of height. .. 1

A bit of height. .. 1

Good positioning.. 2

Good positioning.. 2

Hanging on.. He didn't make this one but I did see him land a monster when I was packing up.

Hanging on.. He didn’t make this one but I did see him land a monster when I was packing up.

Would you be out there?

Would you be out there?

Hmmm, the erosion.

Hmmm, the erosion.

Some sly barrels around as well.

Some sly barrels around as well.

A great angle.

A great angle.

HAPPY beach walks and skaters and barkers.

HAPPY beach walks and skaters and barkers.

More... 1

More… 1

2

2

Seems the waves were good for bottom turns today.

Seems the waves were good for bottom turns today.

Richo, in-between coaching sessions.

Richo, in-between coaching sessions.

Showing the old one-two...

Showing the old one-two…

2

2

Another bottom turn.

Another bottom turn.

Hello.

Hello.

lawson bashing the lip..

lawson bashing the lip..

A zoom in.....

A zoom in…..

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